How to Spot a Fake Pokemon or MTG Card Before You Submit It for Grading
Nobody wants to pay grading fees on a card that turns out to be a counterfeit. Fakes have become more sophisticated over the past few years, especially for high-value Pokemon and Magic: The Gathering cards, so it pays to check a card carefully before you submit it.
Quick Answer
The fastest ways to check for a counterfeit card are the light test, the texture test, and a weight or dimension check. Genuine cards have a thin black layer in the middle that blocks light when held up to a bright source, a specific card stock texture, and consistent weight and size compared to known authentic cards from the same set. If a card fails more than one of these checks, treat it as a strong candidate for a fake and avoid submitting it for grading.
The Light Test
Hold the card up to a bright light or a flashlight from behind. Authentic Pokemon cards have a black layer sandwiched between the front and back that blocks most light from passing through. If light shines through easily or you can clearly see a silhouette of the card's printed design from the back, that is a strong sign of a counterfeit.
The Texture Test
Run a finger lightly across the card's surface. Genuine cards from major manufacturers have a consistent, slightly textured card stock. Fakes are often printed on stock that feels too smooth, too glossy, or unusually thin. Holographic foil cards are another good test point, since counterfeit foil patterns often look pixelated or shift color incorrectly compared to a verified genuine copy.
The Weight and Dimension Check
Compare the suspect card's weight and dimensions against a card you know is authentic, ideally using a kitchen or jewelry scale accurate to a tenth of a gram. Most standard trading cards fall within a very tight weight range for their type. A card that is noticeably lighter or heavier, or slightly off in length or width, is worth further scrutiny.
Check the Print Details
Zoom in on small text, symbols, and set numbers using a phone camera or magnifying glass:
Font weight and spacing should match official printings exactly. Fakes often have slightly bolder, thinner, or misaligned text.
Set symbols and rarity markers should be crisp, not blurry or pixelated.
Card borders should be evenly spaced and consistent in color across all four sides.
Cross-Reference Known Print Runs
If a card's set, number, or rarity combination does not match official print run data for that set, it is likely fabricated. Searching the exact card name and number alongside terms like "checklist" or "print run" can quickly confirm whether that specific card and rarity combination actually exists.
What to Do If You Suspect a Fake
If a card fails any of these checks, do not submit it for grading. Grading fees are non-refundable in most cases, and a grading company that identifies a card as counterfeit during intake will typically return it ungraded rather than assign a grade. Instead:
Compare it side by side with a verified authentic copy if you can access one.
Ask for a second opinion in a trusted collector community before assuming the worst.
If you purchased the card recently, contact the seller or marketplace to pursue a refund, since misrepresenting a counterfeit as genuine is grounds for a dispute on most platforms.
FAQ
Can a grading company tell me if my card is fake? Most grading companies will flag cards they identify as counterfeit during intake and will not assign a grade, though this should not be your only line of defense since you will still owe submission fees in many cases.
Are counterfeit cards illegal to own? Owning a counterfeit card is generally not illegal, but knowingly selling one as genuine can expose the seller to fraud claims.
Do fakes only affect expensive cards? No. While high-value chase cards are targeted most often, counterfeiters also produce fake commons and mid-tier cards in bulk for cheaper resale scams.
Is a slightly different shade of foil always a sign of a fake? Not necessarily, since foil can appear differently under various lighting. Use foil appearance as one data point alongside the light test, texture test, and weight check rather than a standalone verdict.
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